Racial discrimination prevented the Chinese from working in most jobs. By 1880, there were thousands of immigrants living in Manhattan’s Chinatown. But racist attacks out west and in small towns everywhere forced the Chinese to flee to urban Chinese enclaves, where there was safety in numbers. By the 1870s they lived in 32 of the 37 states. When the Gold Rush and railroad were completed, the Chinese spread out all over the country. Since there were very few Chinese women (one for every six men), the guys had to cook and launder for themselves and their compatriots, skills they would employ when starting businesses. By 1830 they had formed a small community in the notorious Five Points section of downtown Manhattan, which eventually became known as Chinatown. They had sailed into the harbor as early as the 1780s, as merchants and traders. When did the Chinese come to New York?Ĭontrary to popular belief, the Chinese did not wait until after the California Gold Rush or the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869 to venture to New York. And, as we will see, some of the most important Chinese chefs, restaurateurs, and innovative dishes were born in New York City. I can’t imagine any compilation of popular Big Apple eats without it. than MacDonald’s, Burger King and KFC combined.Īlthough American Chinese food is not “native” to New York, it has become so ingrained in the city’s culture and foodways, and is so widely enjoyed in every borough, that I consider it an “iconic” New York food. And it will explain why there are more Chinese restaurants in the U.S. When we look at the above story a bit closer, we’ll discover the genius behind the Chinese entrepreneurs who invented this “fast food” cuisine in America over a century ago. And the bill was surprisingly inexpensive. When all are stuffed and can’t eat another bite, there is still a lot left, destined to become tomorrow’s fried rice. Although each person may have ordered one or two of their favorites, everyone tries everything. Chopsticks, sweet-and-sour and soy sauce packets, and fortune cookies are disseminated. Years ago a huge collection of paper menus would be brought out, but nowadays everyone chooses their favorites via cell phone.įaster than expected, the doorbell rings. A decision is made to “order in.” But what kind of food? Someone says “Let’s do Chinese!” Everyone agrees. It’s dinnertime, and no one wants to cook. You’re hanging out with family and/or friends. How a group of feared, hated and banned immigrants created New York’s (and America’s) most popular cuisine
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